The Reykjavik Runtur

Financial collapse. Elves, and a delicacy of rotten shark. Volcanic eruptions. Those are the things you've probably heard about Iceland. But I know what you really want to learn about: the Reykjavik rúntur.

What's the rúntur?

The word rúntur means "round tour," and that's pretty much what it is: a loop around the neighborhood, a way to pass long, dark winter nights or the endless light of summer. In small towns it started with local kids driving slow laps of the main street. In Reykjavik it's an adult pastime, and one that involves a lot of alcohol. Every weekend, normally early-to-bed Icelanders pack a week's worth of partying into two nights, moving from bar to bar until the early hours of the next morning.

It even has a holiday. Beer was banned in Iceland until 1 March 1989, and that date is now celebrated as Beer Day, often with an organized bar crawl (Ölgerðin's history recalls the first one in 1989).

Before you go out

Know what it costs

Drinking in Reykjavik is expensive. At Kaffibarinn, draft beer costs 1,700 to 1,850 ISK at full price, spritzes are 2,300 to 2,400 ISK and most cocktails are 2,900 ISK (as of 2026). Do a proper rúntur at those prices and it adds up fast. So do as Icelanders do: have a fyrirpartý (pre-party) at home or in your room first.

Stock up on the way in

If you're planning ahead, buy your drinks at the duty-free store in the Keflavík arrivals hall before you go through customs. The allowance for travelers 20 and over is, for example, 1 liter of spirits, 0.75 liters of wine and 3 liters of beer. See the customs page for the other combinations. In town, the only place to buy regular-strength alcohol is Vínbúðin, and the downtown store closes at 18:00 most days (19:00 on Fridays) and is shut on Sundays. If you're buying for Saturday night, don't leave it to Saturday evening.

Watch the clock

Nobody goes out early. Have dinner, have your pre-party, and head into town around 23:00 or later. Bars fill up after midnight, and on Fridays and Saturdays many stay open until 3:00 or later. Kaffibarinn closes at 4:30.

Dress the part

Icelanders dress up on weekend nights, and Reykjavik is a fashion-conscious city. Jeans are fine for men, though you'll see plenty in trousers or even suits. Women wear nice jeans, but dresses (with heels, even in winter) are common. Bring a warm coat for the queue and the walk home. See what to wear in Reykjavik.

Bring ID

The legal drinking age in Iceland is 20. Bars like Kaffibarinn are strictly 20-plus, and it's the same age limit at Vínbúðin.

Where to go

It's not hard to find the action. Follow the well-dressed, tipsy people and listen for the music. Stick your head into a bar and you'll know right away if it's your kind of place. Most of it is on and around Laugavegur, Bankastræti and Austurstræti, all within about a ten-minute walk of each other.

A few places to anchor your night:

• Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1. The little red house just off Laugavegur has been the city's most famous bar since 1993, and it's in the film 101 Reykjavík. It's a café by day with DJs every night, and entry is free. Happy hour starts at 15:00, with draft beer from 1,050 ISK until 20:00.
• Kaldi Bar, Laugavegur 20b. Twelve beers on tap, including unfiltered Kaldi, and 93 gins. Happy hour runs from 16:00 to 19:00, and it's open until 3:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.
• Lebowski Bar, Laugavegur 20a. Right next door, themed on the movie, and as unpretentious as it sounds.
• Prikið, Bankastræti 12. A café since 1951 that turns into a bar and music venue at night, with a younger crowd and the local underground music scene. Open until 2:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.

Beer-focused? The brewery tour in Reykjavik is a good warm-up.

What to drink

You can drink whatever you like. Beer is the cheapest option, especially Icelandic lagers like Gull, Víking and Kaldi, and happy hour prices make a big difference. You'll also find wine, cocktails and most spirits, including Icelandic ones like Reyka vodka and Flóki whisky. For the full rundown, see what to drink in Iceland and drinking in Iceland.

Don't worry about buying rounds for friends. It's not expected, and nobody will judge you for nursing one beer for an hour. Plenty of people pace themselves to save money.

The end of the night

As the night winds down, or more likely as early morning rolls into the next day, it's time to head back. But first, a compulsory stop for an Icelandic hot dog. Order one "with everything" (eina með öllu) for raw and fried onions, ketchup, sweet mustard and remoulade. The Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand on Tryggvagata, in business since 1937, is the famous one. It's the only proper way to finish a rúntur.

Downtown Reykjavik is small, so most people walk home. If you're staying farther out, expect a queue for taxis at closing time, and see getting around in Reykjavik for your options.

Other big nights out

Reykjavik goes all out on New Year's Eve, and summer weekends under the midnight sun feel like one long party when it never gets dark. For more on eating and drinking in the city, see dining and drinking in Reykjavik.

Photo by tomcorsan